silenevillas

28 giugno 2018

174 commenti

My Greek Salad: “Karpathos: l’isola che ti stupisce”

Andare in un’isola per 17 anni e scoprire sempre luoghi nuovi è possibile? Certo, almeno a Karpathos. Questa, infatti, è la mia esperienza: arrivata per puro caso a Karpathos nel 2000 ne sono rimasta folgorata: allora era un’isola fuori dal tempo. Come ripeto spesso era la mia Sardegna degli anni Settanta. La Costa Smeralda selvaggia, fatta solo di natura, che mi è rimasta nel cuore.

 

Arrivare a Karpathos 30 anni dopo mi ha fatto rivivere le stesse sensazioni della mia infanzia. Il profumo del rosmarino, del timo, dello skinnos che arriva a folate, come il meltemi, per inebriarti. Perché Karpathos, e questo è il suo bello, è anche vento: quel vento che toglie il caldo e che ti fa respirare, quel vento che ti fa ballare in mezzo all’aloni (il caso di mia figlia), quel vento che è Grecia. Ma l’amore a prima vista, lo ammetto, non è stato per Karpathos nella sua interezza ma per Amoopi: bella , bellissima, da togliere il fiato soprattutto all’imbrunire quando la luce si fa rosa e il mare si veste di una sfumatura viola.

 

E tu stai lì e lo guardi, quel mare, quella baia, quella pace fuori dal tempo. Amoopi e Karpathos sono cambiate parecchio da allora: più italiani, più turismo, più “casino”. Ma se scegli di stare un po’ “in alto”, in collina, puoi ancora vivere quella magia. E per collina, ovviamente, intendo una piccola altitudine che, in macchina, dista un paio di curve e una manciata di minuti dalle acque incontaminate di Amoopi. Ed è da lì che, anche a ferragosto, è possibile assaporare la Karpathos più vera: quella che se ne frega dei turisti che arrivano e partono; quella che sa – sempre e comunque – di essere bella ed irrequieta come una donna inafferrabile che fa impazzire gli uomini.

 

Ed è proprio su una “collinetta” a metà strada tra Amoopi e la piccola Amoopi che si trovano le Silene Villas. Come le descriverei? Come villette timide; timide nell’accezione migliore del termine: quasi si nascondono – di notte – perché vogliono lasciare che il cielo sia quanto più buio possibile affinché le stelle, quelle stelle che chi ama la Grecia conosce bene, siano le uniche protagoniste della nottata. Poche luci, un telescopio per villetta per poter ammirare ancora meglio il cielo e tanta pace. Quella pace che, anche ad Agosto, ti regala il fatto di posizionarti appena sopra il livello del mare: poche centinaia di metri che, però, ti salvano dai turisti di Agosto che, non a caso, trovano in Amoopi la loro baia preferita. E tu, allora, stai appena un po’ più su e ti godi solo lo spettacolo di quella Terra degli Dei a cui i malati di Grecia non riescono a dire di no.

 

Cosa dire di altro… le villette sono super curate. Dal telescopio per ammirare il cielo alla piccola piscina discreta che completa ogni terrazza, dall’affaccio privilegiato sulla baia di Amoopi studiato con attenzione, passando per il giardino che invidio (io non sono ancora riuscita a casa mia a Karpathos a far crescere gran che….). E poi ci sono Kalliope (la cui abbreviazione in greco è Popi) e Marianna: Popi giovane e caparbia, attenta e sempre presente. Sua mamma Marianna, invece, è per me un “angelo custode”. E’ lei che mi ha aiutata a organizzare il matrimonio in terra scarpantina controllando, in loco, che tutti i passaggi burocratici fossero a posto. (PS: se la incontrate chiedetele quando ha inseguito una capra alle cinque di mattina con un lazzo improvvisato). Ma ciò che descrive al meglio le Silene Villas sono le immagini che sicuramente avrete già guardato.

 

Non mi resta che concludere con un ultimo omaggio alla “mia Karpathos”. Lei è mare e montagna: si passa infatti dai colori tropicali di Diakofti alle alture di Kali Limni (1200) in cui, in inverno, cade la neve. Lei è i makaruna fatti dalla vecchina in un kafenion ed è la cucina di Poseidon che riedita piatti internazionali. Lei è windsurf e bicicletta, hiking e kite surf. Lei ti scoraggia, all’inizio, cercando di farti scappare ma poi ti conquista perché è troppo bella. Ed io, per questo, le sarò sempre grata.

Paola – My Greek Salad www.mygreeksalad.it @my.greek.salad

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